Hot and Cold Composting Guide

Composting sounds tricky to begin with. There are so many stages, and so many variations that it can be easy to become confused and decide to opt for the recognized brands instead. However if you plan carefully, your compost will not only save you money at the garden center it will also save you space in your wheely bin, and let’s face it most of us have to be a Womble these days in order to fit everything into the fortnightly run!
There are two main forms of the compost heap, the hot compost and the cold compost. Once you have the knack for each, you’ll be supplying your plants with rich nutrients, and relishing the peelings from the Sunday roast.

Hot and Cold Composting Guide

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Cold Compost

This is the easiest of all compost heaps, as it takes very little maintenance and almost anything green or plant like can be thrown on as you go. This is the main difference between the two. Hot compost begins with a good stock of kitchen and garden waste, whereas cold compost begins with a little which is then added to. Vegetable peelings, hedge trimmings, grass, even cardboard and paper can make up this pile, and all it will need is a little watering in dry weather in order for it to keep moist. Citrus is not a good idea as it can add too much acidity, yet teabags, eggshells and banana skins all add to the “flavor” to the compost, whilst a layer of cardboard retains moisture, and twigs aerate the mixture. Although relatively simple, this compost does have its drawbacks. As it is cold compost it can take up to a year to rot, however compost accelerators can be used depending on how organic you’d like it to be. Also, weeds thrive, so it has to be carefully waded through making sure no dandelion heads or thistles have wormed their way in!
Some gardeners like to plonk worms onto their compost, and profess that it speeds up the process. However, this decision is entirely up to you.

Hot Compost

Trickier to begin with, hot compost has all the advantages cold compost doesn’t. The heat generated will kill off any weed seedlings, and the rotting rate will be increased significantly. However, it is up to the individual to decide if this is worth the extra effort you must put in in order to create fabulous soil for your seedlings a and not just a pile of mush. In as little as six weeks you could reap your rotting rewards, and benefit from a superior product.
To start you will need at least a bin full of waste material you would like to rot. At the bottom of your new compost heap place sweet corn stems, twigs, branches, anything that will lift it a little and allow air to circulate. In layers add the material and then an activator such as manure, ammonia of sulphate (read the box) or an accelerator from a garden center. Make sure the heap is damp but not dripping, a fine rose on a watering can or the end of a hose will give the perfect balance of moisture. Within a week the heap will warm up and be hot to the touch, this is the time to bring the outside contents into the middle, which will begin the warming process again. Once the heap is cold all of the times, despite mixing, leave it to finish off and voila… Compost made easy!

This post was written by Martina Mercer who often writes on such things as plug plants and other garden related topics.